Description
This product includes rear light and brake function!
- 100% plug ‘n play. Installation is very easy and should not take long.
- Suitable for use with RadMini, RadRhino, RadRhino Step-Thru, RadRunner, and RadWagon.
- Compatible with both 48v and 52v batteries.
- Dimensions: 19.5cm x 8.25cm x 4.5cm
- The package includes 1 x controller and 1 x colour LCH8H display.
This controller and display upgrade is the easiest and fastest way to significantly increase the performance of your bike. Installation takes a few minutes as the controller and display are 100% plug ‘n play with your existing connections.
Unlock the full potential of your bike.
Note: the lighting module is rated to 70maH. If you draw more than 70maH this module will burn out. The controller remains functional but the lights will not work. This product must be protected from water ingress including heavy rain and should never be immersed in water.
This product is NOT suitable for the RADRhino/RADRover 6 and RADCity Plus 5 ebikes.
Compatible with both 48v and 52 batteries. Any voltage above 60V will burn out and damage this device.
Product Overview
To access the settings screen:
Turn on the display by pressing the power button |
Then, within 5 seconds, press and hold the up and down buttons, simultaneously |
You will then be presented with the following screen: |
![]() *do not use these settings |
Setting | Purpose | BGB Recommended Value | Notes |
---|---|---|---|
LIM | Top speed | 25 | This value sets the maximum speed. |
DIM | Wheel diameter | RadRunner – 24
RADRhino – 29 RADRhino Step Thru – 29 RADMisson – 29 RADmini – 22 RADWagon – 24 |
This measurement includes the tyre |
UNT | Units of measurement (0,1,2,3) | 0=Km/Celsius 1=MPH/Celcius 2=Km/Fahrenheit 3=Miles/Fahrenheit |
|
P1 | Motor Gear Ratio | 100 – geared motor
46 – direct-drive motor |
|
P2 | Wheel speed sensor (0-6) | 5 | The number of magnet pulses generated per revolution of the wheel. For most 750w motors, the setting is 5. For most 350w motors, use 6. If speed reading wrong, try different settings. |
P3 | Relationship between pedal assist and power (0-1) |
1 | 0= Amount of throttle limited by whatever level of assist you are in at any given time. 1= full throttle whenever you want it. |
P4 | Pre-condition for throttle use (0-1) | 1 | 0=Throttle works whenever you use it. 1=Throttle works only if you are pedaling. |
P5 | Power monitoring mode. (0-40) | 15 | Adjust the way in which the display calculates how much range you have left. 0=default mode: uses real-time battery voltage to determine the remaining range. 1-40 = smart mode variable settings. For example: 11=Smart mode for 24v battery. 15=Smart mode for 36v and 48v batteries. Increasing the setting number will make the battery meter think you’re running out of power faster. Adjust setting to achieve an accurate battery meter readout. |
C1 | Pedal-assist sensitivity setting (0-7) | 3 | Allows for different sensitivities with certain Kunteng brand power assist sensors. 3= 12 magnet sensor |
C2 | Motor phases. | 0 | 0=Bafang and other ordinary motors. 1-7= motors using a special motor phase. |
C3 | The default level of pedal-assist when the bike is switched on (1-5 & 8) |
8 | 1-5=set default pedal-assist number. 8=pedal assist will be whatever it was when the bike was shut off. |
C4 | Throttle control (0-5) | 1 | 0=Throttle always works and has full power (up to max set by C5). 1=Throttle works up to 6 km/h without pedaling, full power if you pedal. Other settings=variety of odd effects Note: this setting relates to the P4 setting. |
C5 | Maximum controller output (0-10) | 5 | 0= slow start 3-phase to max current (current increases as you pedal). 1= slow start 2-phase to max current (current increases as you pedal). 2= Gradually works up to max current. 3= max ÷ 2 (50% of max current) 4= max ÷ 1.5 (67% of max current) 5= max ÷ 1.33 (75% of max current) 6= max ÷ 1.25 (80% of max current) 7= max ÷ 1.2 (83% of max current) 8= max ÷ 1.15 (87% of max current) 9=max ÷ 1.1 (91% of max current) 10= max current (100%) Note: tuning this setting in combination with C14 is the best way to tune power/range. It applies to all pedal assist settings. Max current is calculated by multiplying the battery voltage by the controller amp rating (48v x 35 amps = 1,680 watts) |
C6 | Backlight adjustment (1-5) | 3 | 1 is least bright, 5 is most bright. |
C7 | Cruise function (0-1) | 0 | If this feature is activated, holding the up arrow button when riding will set the cruise control at your current speed. Cruise control is canceled by pressing a button, using brakes or throttle. 0= Off 1= 0n |
C8 | Motor temperature monitoring (0-1) | 0 | Only works if your motor has a temperature sensor (RAD motors do not). 0= Off 1= On |
C9 | Password (0-1) | 0 | 0= Off 1= On Warning: unless you are prepared to set (and remember) or already have set (and remember) the password for your screen, DO NOT turn this feature on. You will be permanently locked out of your screen |
C10 | Reset to default (Y/N) | N | Y: reset the screen to default settings. N: leave custom settings as they are. |
C11 | Communication protocol setting (0-2) | 0 | Used for setting transfer to other displays. You probably never need to change this. 0= off. |
C12 | Minimum voltage cut-off point | 4 | This adjusts the point at which the battery will be automatically shut off to protect it from being drained too far down. 4 is the default setting, with values above and below that incrementally raising or lowering the limit by 0.5 volts. For a 48v battery, this should be set at 40v, which is the 4 setting. Warning: setting this lower than 4 could result in permanent battery damage. |
C13 | Regenerative braking (0-5) | 0 | Only applies if you have a direct drive hub 0= no regenerative braking. 1-5= increasingly uses braking to recharge the battery (5 is most braking resistance/charging) |
C14 | Power assist tuning (1-3) | 2 | 1= less power assist 2= regular power assist 3= more power assist Note: This only affects pedal assist settings 1- 4. Pedal-assist 5 is always full power. Note: Tuning this setting in combination with C5 is the best way to tune power/range. |
L1 | Advanced feature | DO NOT CHANGE | DO NOT CHANGE |
L2 | Advanced feature | DO NOT CHANGE | DO NOT CHANGE |
L3 | Advanced feature | DO NOT CHANGE | DO NOT CHANGE |
L4 | Advanced feature | DO NOT CHANGE | DO NOT CHANGE |
I know many, many people reviewed the 35A controller upgrade already, but I had to write my own review. I just tested m...More
I know many, many people reviewed the 35A controller upgrade already, but I had to write my own review. I just tested my upgrade with the new controller from BGB and WOW, thank you Gareth S, I knew it would pull harder but I never thought by that much. I'm at the top end of heavy riders and with the stock controller on my Rad Mini 4 2021 I would only get to the top speed of 33km/h (20M/h) on a slight downhill and in ~20sec, now I get to 33km/h (20M/h) in around ~5sec on flat ground or even on a slight uphill. Also, since I have not yet change the motor for a true 750W I configured the power to only 80% not to burn out the original motor.
I can't wait to do the motor upgrade as well, this thing will be a cross between an Ebike and dirt bike. In my opinion, this is a must-do upgrade, it transforms the Rad Mini in what it should have been from day 1.
The power difference is night and day, on full power this thing gives 1200-1500+ watts, I think I may have seen 1600+ at some point, it's ridiculous. Uphill riding is so much better. Top speed isn't affected but I'm not personally not interested in that, 20-24mph is fast enough for me, I purchased it for the extra torque and it delivers. Besides it gets to 20mph in no time at all and crossing intersections is actually safer because you do it so quick, actually so quick that my suspension seat post dips down when I accelerate!
Obviously, your range is massively affected if you are riding everywhere full power but it also would on the stock bike riding at full power. To give an example, I am 20 stone and I have just ridden around 12 miles going almost full power everywhere and there is 1 bar remaining on the battery. I did a few very steep climbs into some local woods, in fact, it was so steep I lost one bar going only 3.9 miles but a lot of it was at full power. I wasn't concerned with the range I just wanted the full torque all the time and did a lot of accelerating up to 20mph then braking so was very impressed with the range considering I was using the full power lots of the time. Reading the instructions it says once all bars are gone you have 15% battery left, considering it had only just gone to 1 bar there must have been at least 25% of the battery remaining.
One thing I like is the PAS, PAS1 gives around 185watts, PAS2 300watts, PAS3 450-500watts, PAS4 750-800watts, and PAS5 is the full 1200-1500+watts. This can be adjusted in the menu but I like this because PAS1 is great for just riding around and not using a lot of battery but PAS4 when climbing a hill is the equivalent of the full power of the stock Rad but just a tad more powerful topping out at 800watts. But, you've got that extra power if you start flagging by either going to PAS5 or just turning the throttle. It's basically like riding the stock bike on full power up a hill but you have an overdrive button that gives you that extra boost, something I think the stock bike was really missing going up a hill.
One other great feature is the USB port on the new display. My old one did have it but I tried running light off it and it was hit and miss and I gave up. On this new display, I can plug an extra light into it (a super bright nighttime 1200 lumens light) and it will run off the bike's battery!
Pros: Good price, the best bang for your buck in terms of power upgrade, easy to install, great new looking display, a USB port that works well, brilliant torque!
Cons: It Will eat your battery up if not careful (but to be expected), a fitment kit for the new controller would be nice along with it to make installation easy.
Overall I would say this controller upgrade is worth every penny, it's like a new bike and so much fun, I'm so glad I bought it and Gareth from Big Game Bikes is so helpful. If you are stuck and email him he'll ring you before you've clicked send to help you out! And also take your calls and talk you through things, brilliant customer service.
p.s. I'd advise upgrading to the hydraulic brakes, I did and I'm so glad!